How To Make Mantı At Home

One of the most prestige dishes in Turkish cuisine with track going back to the Ottoman Empire are the little meat dumplings called Mantı. In Istanbul’s Restaurants the classic modern version of Mantı is severed with a cold yoghurt garlic sauce and is drizzled with hot red pepper oil on top. Cold yoghurt on hot pasta seems peculiar to you? Well, that’s something quite common around Turkic and Middle Eastern countries and you should give this awesome delicious dish definitely a try.

Mantı are most popular around all Turkic and Middle Eastern countries, but might vary in size, shape and filling on the geographical region. Every Turkish family has its quite own favorite version. They may be boiled or baked, but the recipe itself is fairly standard. A classic pasta dough is rolled out and filled with minced lamb or beef meat and fold into tiny packages. In modern Turkish cuisine, Mantı are typically served with a cold yogurt-garlic sauce and topped by further spices. A hot and spicy sauce made of butter or olive oil infused with red pepper flakes, pepper or tomato paste is poured over the dish. In addition to this it can be sprinkled with sumac and dried mint. For some extra crisp the Mantı can be deep fried instead of being cooked.

The most praised version of Mantı is originally from the Kayseri, an Anatolian city in mid Turkey, and is also known as Kayseri Mantısı. In Kayseri there is a tradition that a future bride has to make Mantı for her future mother-in-law. The smaller the tiny dumplings are, the more skillful is the future daughter-in-law in the kitchen. It’s said that at least 40 pieces should fit on one spoon to certify the future bride good cooking skills.

You can find a full variety of meat Mantı recipes around the internet, but a vegetarian version is hard to find. Down below you can find the recipe for a traditional meat filling, but for a vegetarian option also.

Ingredients

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Dough Meat Filling Vegetarian Filling
400 g flour

180 ml lukewarm water

1 egg

1 tsp. salt

 250 g minced meat

1 chopped onion

1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley

½ tsp. black pepper

1 tsp. salt  

 150 g lentils

500 ml water

1 chopped onion

2 tbsp. cream cheese

70 g roasted, chopped walnuts

1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley

½ tsp. black pepper

1 tsp. salt
Garlic Yoghurt Hot Spicy Sauce Topping
400 g yoghurt

1-2 cloves of chopped garlic

Salt to taste

 4 tbsp. olive oil or butter

1 tbsp. pepper paste or tomato paste

1 tsp. red pepper flakes

 Dried mint Sumac

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For the dough mix water, egg and salt together and gradually knead the flour in by hand. Knead it to a smooth dough cover it with clingfilm or a wet towel and give the dough some time to rest.

Meanwhile prepare the filling. For the meat filling simply mix all the ingredients listed outlined above. When you go for the vegetarian filling, cook the lentils in water until the lentils are done. 500 ml of water is an approximated benchmark of the amount of water you need, depending on the lentils you use. Mix the onion, walnuts, cream cheese, parsley, salt and pepper to the lentils. You can also prepare the yoghurt sauce in advance by basically mixing yoghurt, garlic and salt, so it has time to develop its full taste.

Take a third of your dough and roll it with the help of a standard or Turkish rolling pin (Oklava) to a thin layer. Sprinkle the dough with some flour to prevent the dough from sticking to your work surface. Take a knife or pizza cutter to cut the dough into little squares of about three centimeter. Put a pea-size portion of filling in the middle of each square. The tricky part is to fold the Mantı in the shape of little packages by pressing together all four corners and pinch to seal. Once you got how it works it’s a relaxing but time consuming task. In Turkish families making Mantı is traditionally a group project which is filling a whole afternoon and involves all female members of the family. Prevent the Mantı from sticking to each other by putting them with on a towel or lightly floured surface without toughing each other.

Cook the Mantı in a large pot of simmering hot salted water for 5-10 minutes. You might do this in two or three batched depending on the size of your pot. Drain the Mantı, but don’t rinse them. For the hot spicy sauce let oil or butter get hot in a little pan. Stir in pepper or tomato paste and red pepper flakes and let it come up to boil for a minute. Serve the Mantı topped with a generous amount of yoghurt sauce and a tablespoon of hot spicy sauce. Sprinkle with dried mint and sumac up to taste.

Afiyet olsun!

Osman II: A Victim of the Ottoman Era of Change

The Yedikule Fortress, whose history can be traced back to the Late Antiquity, witnessed numerous historical events in the course of time. One of them was the dramatic death of Osman II, also known under the name Osman, the Young.  May 1622 he was strangled there by the Janissaries at the age of 18 within the framework of the 17th century´s power struggles of the Ottoman ruling elite. For the first time in Ottoman history, a sultan was killed by its subjects.[1]

Looking to this incident from a larger perspective, the late 16th century´s and the 17th century’s global crises caused by population increase, the Little Ice Age, epidemics and additional domestic problems induced transformations in different societies of the world.

This era of crises hit also the Ottoman Empire and provoked not only changes in bureaucracy, military and economics[2] but also conflicts between the traditional system and reforming attempts. Moreover proliferation of power took place. While in the past rule was indisputably concentrated in sultan´s sovereignty, in the 17th century different court factions and their interests played a crucial role in Ottoman politics. The voices of the sultanic family, the bureaucrats and statesmen, the ulama, the Ottoman military and finally the influential notables in the peripheries developed to decisive elements of the Ottoman rule. Their “revolts and alliances” led to several political crises and changes in the empire.[3]

Osman II´s accession to power was a result of such a crisis. After the death of Ahmed I, for the first time in Ottoman history succession occurred not from father to son but from brother to brother. Against the Ottoman tradition of fratricide, Ahmed I did not kill his brother Mustafa I and offered so a further heir for the sultanate besides his sons. 1617 Mustafa I became sultan installed through the power games of the court. However, the following year he was dis-empowered because of his mental incapacity to rule.[4]

Strong and Martial Sultan Osman II

In 1618 just at the age of 14 Osman II became the next sultan. Despite his young age, during his reign he tried to reestablish the image of the strong and martial sultan. He stood out with uncommon policies contrary to the ruling conventions of his time. Although the marriage with high-ranking women outside the court was unusual, he married the daughter of the Şeyhülislam, the leading head of the ulama.[5] Or Osman II appointed a grand vizier that was not educated at the court but started a carrier in the Ottoman ruling elite because of the successes of his father.[6] Such kind of unconventional practices caused that he was eyed with suspicion and as a possible threat to both the existing order and the power of the influential factions in Ottoman politics. A disastrous winter which froze the Bosporus and a solar eclipse additionally cast a cloud over his reign.[7]

The Battle of Khotyn in 1621 and the young sultan´s reaction to the heavy losses caused that he finally fell into disfavour with the most of his subjects of the ruling elite. First of all, neglecting the voices who spoke against his participation by the battle, Osman II led the Ottoman army to the battle. His personal success in the war would not only enhance his prestige in the society but also raise his scope of action in politics in order to purge his rivals who challenged the absolute power of the sultan.[8] However, the Ottoman army had to retreat.

Back from the battle, he organised immediately a pilgrimage which should turn to a deadly decision for the young sultan. Though his real aim is unclear, the main opinion was that he planned this campaign for the creation of a new army in Anatolia after the failure of Kothyn. The army in Istanbul reacted harshly. The janissaries in Istanbul broke in the palace and dis-empowered Osman II and handed the sultanate back to Mustafa I.[9]

The last days of Osman II´s life is presumed to be one of the darkest days of a sultan in the Ottoman history. Offended, mistreated and dishonoured publicly, he finally ended up in the Yedikule Fortress where he was murdered in cruel circumstances.[10] However, his death was just another outcome of an era of turmoil generated through changes in the Ottoman society and politics.

References:
[1] Değİrmencİ, Tülün: İktİdar Oyunları ve Resİmlİ Kİtaplar, II Osman Devrİnde DeğİŞen Güç Sİmgelerİ (İstanbul; Kİtap Yayinevİ, 2012), 19.
[2] DEĞİRMENCİ, TÜLÜN: İKTİDAR OYUNLARI VE RESİMLİ KİTAPLAR, II OSMAN DEVRİNDE DEĞİŞEN GÜÇ SİMGELERİ (İstanbul; Kİtap Yayınevİ, 2012), 26-27.
[3] Faroqui, Suraiya: “Crisis and Change, 1590-1699”, in An Economic and Social History of the Ottoman Empire, ed. H. Inalcik with D. Quataert (Cambridge; CUP, 1994), vol. 2, 413-415.
[4] Öztuna, Yılmaz: Genç Osman ve IV Murad (İstanbul; Babialİ Kültür Yayıncılığı, 2008), 15-18.
[5] DEĞİRMENCİ, TÜLÜN: İKTİDAR OYUNLARI VE RESİMLİ KITAPLAR, II OSMAN DEVRİNDE DEĞİŞEN GÜÇ SİMGELERİ (İstanbul; Kİtap Yayınevİ, 2012),  250-251.
[6] Tezcan, Bakİ: “Khotin 1621, or How the Poles Changes the Course of Ottoman History”; HistoryActa Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae , Vol. 62, No. 2 (June 2009), pp. 186-187.
[7] Öztuna, Yılmaz: Genç Osman ve IV Murad (İstanbul; Babialİ Kültür Yayıncılığı, 2008), 36-37, 40.
[8] Tezcan, Bakİ:” Khotin 1621, or How the Poles Changes the Course of Ottoman History”; HistoryActa Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae , Vol. 62, No. 2 (June 2009), pp. 188-189.
[9] Tezcan, Bakİ: “Khotin 1621, or How the Poles Changes the Course of Ottoman History”; HistoryActa Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae , Vol. 62, No. 2 (June 2009), pp. 191-192.
[10] Öztuna, Yılmaz: Genç Osman ve IV Murad (İstanbul; Babialİ Kültür Yayıncılığı, 2008), 69-74.

Work Permission For Foreign Students

The labour act which organises working conditions of foreigners in Turkey has recently come into operation as it’s published in the official journal. The new law includes a large number of regulations considering working conditions for foreigners.

The new legislation entitles a work permit to international students who have completed their higher education in Turkey. According to the new law, international students can now make an application for a work permit in Turkey under the condition that they must apply for it in the first year after their graduation. Applications which are made within one year will be evaluated by the consultative committee of International Workforce Policy Foundation. According to the 2014-2015 school year statistics of the Higher Education Council, approximately 68 thousand international students resided in Turkey in that year.

The Turquoise Card is another element introduced by this new legislation. A foreigner who can leave a positive impression on Turkey’s economy and employment with his/her educational level and professional experience will become an owner of Turquoise Card, which provides a work permit for an indefinite time period. Applications for the Turquoise Card will be evaluated by a consultative committee of the International Workforce Policy Foundation, and the granted applicants will gain the right of owning a Turquoise Card by a three-year period of transition. However, refugees will not be able to apply for the Turquoise Card.

Foreigners can make their applications to embassies or consulates of the Turkish Republic or Ministry of Labour and Social Security. Maximum 1-year work permit can be obtained in the first application, maximum 2-year work permit can be obtained in the first work permit extension, and maximum 3-year work permit can be obtained in the second and following work permit extensions. Foreigners who get a long-term residency permit or who get an 8-year work permit can make an application to a work permit for an indefinite time period.

The Mozart of Turkish Literature: Sabahattin Ali

“Most of the people in Sabahattin Ali’s novels and stories are weak or even decayed. They are people who go along with the evils of the society or are even the reason for these evils.”[1] These words may describe best Sabahattin Ali’s social realistic works like Kuyucaklı Yusuf or İçimizdeki Şeytan (The Devil Inside Us).  Writing was the way he used in order to criticise the existing order and point out social grievance.

Born in 1907, Sabahattin Ali’s childhood was marked by the troublesome events leading to the establishment of the Turkish Republic. After finishing his education as a teacher, he studied German in Berlin for two years where he was attracted by leftist ideas experiencing there the German socialist ideology and labour movement. [2]

Turning back to Turkey in 1930, he started to work for the publishing of a magazine with Turkish socialists like the poet Nazım Hikmet. His critical attitude and his political orientation resulted in first troubles with the police. Accused for insulting Mustafa Kemal Atatürk in one of his poems, he was imprisoned for several months. [3] Just with another poem praising Atatürk, he could retrieve his civil servant status as a teacher. [4]

His following years were marked by moves to different cities, changing jobs and frequent conscription calls for precautionary measures due to the Second World War. He started a family and published almost all of his literary significant works during this time. [5]

Always having a close relationship to the Turkish left, nevertheless, it is difficult to call him a revolutionist. His political orientation towards socialism persisted at a theoretical basis because, above all, he continued his contacts to statesmen and kept for long time his civil servant status. First and foremost, he was rather a novelist than a political fighter. Just in the last years of his life the criticism towards the state become gradually harsher in his writings parallel to the rising state oppression which attacked his circle of friends and his work.

Markopaşa Magazine

In 1946, together with Aziz Nesin, another well-known leftist writer of Turkey, he decided to publish Markopaşa which was a satirical and op-positional humour magazine pressed on a weekly basis in Istanbul. The public success, the large circulation and the fierce tone of the magazine displeased politicians. [6]

Like other countries supporting the American side in the Cold War, Turkey experienced a rising anti-communism in politics. Furthermore, after the move to the multi-party period in 1945, Turkey experienced a struggle for power between the Democratic Party and the Republican People’s Party at the expense of the leftist movement. “The years 1948 and 1949 saw a witch-hunt against the left.” [7]

Also Sabahattin Ali became a victim of this anti-communist wave. The first arrestment for 17 days [8] was followed by the closure of Markopaşa and the imprisonment for three months. The attempt to revive the success of Markopaşa under different names ended with the menace of the next arresting and the lack of money. Closely associated with the left wing, being a friend of the novelist became a reason for blame. [9]

Exhausted from all this trouble around him, Sabahattin Ali finally ended up as a truck driver in order to earn his living. Thinking about leaving Turkey, he might also detect this as a way to escape. In March 1948, he started his last drive to Edirne but he never turned back. [10]

In June 1948 his dead body was found in Kırklareli. Ali Ertekin, who shouldered the crime, said he killed him because of national feelings but the novelist´s political background and the late announcement of his death by the police have caused doubts by the testimony of his murderer. Sabahattin Ali still does not have a grave. [11]

References:
[1] Tİmuçİn, Afşar: Öykü ve Romanlarıyla Sabahattİn Ali (İstanbul: Bulut Yayınları, 2011), 90.
[2] Topuz, Hıfzı: Başın Öne Eğİlmesİn, Sabahattin Alİ’nİn Romanı (İstanbul: Remzİ Kİtapevİ, 2007), 36-46.
[3] Topuz, Hıfzı: Başın Öne Eğİlmesİn, Sabahattİn Alİ’nİn Romanı (İstanbul: Remzİ Kİtapevİ, 2007), 58-62.
[4] Alİ, Fİlİz; Özkırımlı, Atİlla; Sönmez, Sevengül: Sabahattİn Alİ, Anılar, İncelemeler, Eleştİrİler (İstanbul: Yapı Kredİ Yayinları, 2014), 25.
[5] Alİ, Fİlİz; Özkırımlı, Atİlla; Sönmez, Sevengül: Sabahattİn Alİ, Anılar, İncelemeler, Eleştİrİler (İstanbul: Yapı Kredİ Yayinları, 2014), 25-26.
[6] Kormaz, Ramazan: Sabahattİn Alİ, İnsan ve Eser ( İstanbul: Yapı Kredİ YaYınları, 1997), 44-47.
[7] Zürcher, Erik J.: Turkey, A Modern History (New York: I.B. Tauris & Co Ltd, 2005), 213.
[8] Topuz, Hıfzı: Başın Öne Eğİlmesİn, Sabahattİn Alİ’nİn Romanı (İstanbul: Remzİ Kİtapevİ, 2007), 168-172
[9] Topuz, Hıfzı: Başın Öne Eğİlmesİn, Sabahattİn Alİ’nİn Romanı (İstanbul: Remzİ Kİtapevİ, 2007), 197-209
[10] KorKmaz, Ramazan: Sabahattİn Alİ, İnsan ve Eser ( İstanbul: Yapı Kredİ YaYınları, 1997), 49-50
[11] Alİ, Fİlİz; Özkırımlı, Atİlla; Sönmez, Sevengül: Sabahattİn Alİ, Anılar, İncelemeler, Eleştİrİler (İstanbul: Yapı Kredİ Yayınları, 2014), 231-252.

Third Bridge Over The Bosphorus Opens

The opening ceremony of the third bridge over the Bosphorus Strait was held on Friday, August 26th with the participations of President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, PM Binali Yıldırım, Turkish Parliamentary Speaker İsmet Kahraman, former PM Ahmet Davutoğlu, Commander of Turkish Armed Forces Hulusi Akar, former President Abdullah Gül and the king of Bahrain.

It was earlier reported that the Bridge was named after an Ottoman Sultan Yavuz Sultan Selim who assumed the title of “Caliphate” to Turks by defeating Umayyads.

The foundation of the bridge was laid on 29th May of 2013, and the last apron of the bridge was placed on 6th March of 2016. In other words, the bridge, which costs nearly $3 billion, completed in a record time.

“This bridge upon which we look with pride will hopefully be a pioneer for many things. … We will be proud of it, you will see. International movies will be filmed here; you will see” Erdoğan told the audience during the opening ceremony of the bridge.

Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge, with its 59m-width, is the broadest drawbridge of the world, the highest drawbridge of the world, with its 320m-heigt tower, and the longest rail system housing-drawbridge of the world, with its 1400m-length rail system as the main span.

Turkish Prime Minister Binali Yıldırım told the audience that “the bridge will not only serve Istanbul but also serve the historic Silk Road, starting from the Far East, ending in Europe and bringing civilizations together by connecting people.”

The rail system was designed as a part of the bridge so that make it possible to transport passengers between İzmit and Edirne. Also, with the integration of Marmaray, Istanbul Metro and the 3rd Bridge, Atatürk Airport, Sabiha Gökçen Airport and the 3rd Airport-under construction- will be interconnected with each other.

By these integrations, the aim is to decrease the traffic jam in Istanbul’s other two bridges as well as to solve the air pollution and environmental issues caused from the heavy traffic of the city. Therefore, heavy vehicles will not be permitted to pass over the other bridges of Istanbul after the 3rd Bridge put into service. Besides, as the 3rd Bridge will decrease the density of traffic of other bridges, fuel loss and workforce loss causing financial loss, which is 3 billion liras per year, will be removed.

The mega project Yavuz Sultan Selim costs 4.5 Billion Turkish Liras. The toll of the bridge is 9.90 TL for autos and 21.29 TL for heavy vehicles. President Erdoğan heralded that the toll will not be applied the midnight of 31 August.

Turkish Rock Story #1: Anatolian Rock Delight

One night, sitting across a table full of empty bottles, a group of friends decided to educate each other on the rock music from their respective countries. As the only Turkish at the table, it was my responsibility to tell them about the birth of Turkish rock. Our drunken discussion was highly informative, and today I present to you a more sober but no less exciting outline of the ‘60s in Istanbul.

Only one year after the international success of “Rock Around the Clock,” the first rock’n’roll No. 1 in the world, the gramophones started to play rock’n’roll music in Istanbul where this new genre of music was immediately picked up by the Istanbul’s elite urban college youth.  From 1957 to 1963, many college students formed their own rock bands and played cover songs of rock’n’roll, beat and twist music. One such student, Barış Manço, was at the Galatasaray Lycee, his alma mater, on 29 Dec 1957, when Erkin Koray, a young musician from German High School held a concert there. Koray and Manço, still students, would later go on to become rock legends in Turkey.

While Manço didn’t suspect this future stardom at the time one thing was certain; music would only be increasingly important to Manço. He was even forced to change schools because his passion for music became the reason for his declining academic performance. Later in 1962, Manço’s band, Harmoniler, released its first record: “Twist in USA/The Jet.” The second one, “The Twist/Let’s Twist Again,” was released in the same year.

Erkin Koray was doing good job as well. His musical talent landed him a role in the movie named “Naylon Leyla” in 1961 which is when he was given the nickname, ‘Crazy Rocker. ’His astonishing success was the root of envy among other musicians, but that did not lead him off track. His only wish was to produce an original song, and that happened in 1963 when he blessed the country with his first record “Bir Eylül Akşamı” (One September Night). His first record is was regarded as the first rock’n’roll song with Turkish lyrics.

[su_youtube_advanced url=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgbU6f9nnWU” width=”640″ showinfo=”no” rel=”no”]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wo_VipgxKSk[/su_youtube_advanced]

Erkin KORAY – Bir Eylül Akşamı

Besides Erkin Koray and Barış Manço there were many other musicians across the country who formed their own bands and played cover songs of the fathers of rock’n’roll music, namely: Chuck Berry, Little Richard, Jerry Lewish and Elvis Presley. However, from the mid-1960s, their sound started to evolve into what we call now “Anatolian Rock” – a mixture of American psychedelic sound and Anatolian folk music. Interestingly, none of Turkish rock pioneers, save for Erkin Koray, had been bound up with traditional folk music previously. On the contrary these young musicians were the first generation of musicians who were thoroughly influenced by Kemalist music reforms that gave them plenty of exposure to western music.

The growth of different genres in Turkish rock music was intertwined with external events. The decade of 1960s saw important issues coming to the forefront of societal consciousness: race relations, war, sexuality, drugs, ecology, belief in God, world hunger and so on. Rock’n’roll music was used to respond to these issues by rebellious youth whom we now call the flower children. Indeed, rock’n’roll, rebellion, protestation, and profligacy went hand in hand during the 60s and the growing unrest scared conservatives and many others who wanted to safeguard the status quo. The ruling elites saw rock’n’roll as a danger to their position, and their attempts to manipulate the situation included a musical competition for the masses.

The Altın Mikrofon (Golden Microphone) competition, organised annually from 1965 to 1968 by Hürriyet, Turkey’s best-selling newspaper, helped shape the future of popular music in Turkey. Finalists were awarded with studio time, an opportunity to record a 45-rpm disc, and a tour across the country. However, there was one catch: the musicians had to either arrange western style music to a traditional folk tune, or compose a completely new song that blended folklore and modern western style.

[su_youtube_advanced url=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81B0eJ3vc2s” width=”640″ showinfo=”no” rel=”no”]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wo_VipgxKSk[/su_youtube_advanced]

Silüetler – Sis

Ziya Gökalp, the father of Turkish nationalism wrote: “In order to create our own international music, we should work on our own melodies…and then polyphonise them according to the rules of Western harmonic music.”’ This idea was endorsed by Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey, who deeply supported reforms to develop national music. As a result, from the early 1930s, Turkish musical life was altered through state institutions; traditional Ottoman music was banned and the ears of the new generation were introduced to Anatolian folk music.

In a way, the Altın Mikrofon contest killed two birds with one stone; it helped secure Anatolian folk music’s position in society and it also postponed the emergence of the real rock music which was considered a threat to the state. But did it work out the way the state wanted it to? The indisputable truth is that the fathers of Turkish rock music were never immersed in any rebellious attitude the way their counterparts in United States or Britain were. Even as the content of rock songs touched upon rebellion, social protest, sex and even drugs abroad, Turkish rock pioneers also made songs about love, suffering, life, death and so on. Their songs spoke about springs, mountains, streams as well as legendary historical figures including the names of Ottoman sultans. Rock music had in the hands and lives of its players, become flowing poetry that provoked restless thought but also invoked still beauty.

[su_youtube_advanced url=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHNCw1-PrK0″ width=”640″ showinfo=”no” rel=”no”]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wo_VipgxKSk[/su_youtube_advanced]

Mavi Işıklar – Çayır Çimen Geze Geze

I’ve spoken much of these spectacularly successful young musicians. It is time to name their compatriots, beginning with the bands that proved short-lived despite their awards at the contest. In 1965, the band Mavi Işıklar took the 2nd place with their twist song “Helvacı” and the band Silüetler took the 3rd place with their beat-rock song “Kaşık Havası”. In the following year, Silüetler won the contest with the song “Lorke Lorke”, while Mavi Işıklar took the 2nd place again with “Çayır Çimen Geze Geze”. Unfortunately, also in that same year, the bands disbanded.

Another band, Moğollar, made a name for themselves with their cover songs and took 3rd place in 1968 with the song “Ilgaz”. Apart from their success in Golden Microphone, they released many favourite songs such as “Mektup”, “Lazy John”, “Everlasting Love” and “Sessiz Gemi”, until 1970, when they left Turkey for Paris in search of international fame.

Cem Karaca, came in 2nd in 1967 with the song “Emrah” which was a beat song with lyrics of folk poem written by Erzurumlu Emrah. After the contest, his band “Apaşlar” (The Rowdies) released their first record “Hudey Hudey”, followed by many smash hits such as “Resimdeki Gözyaşları” and “Istanbul’u Dinliyorum”. Despite that achievement, the band faltered under political and personal disagreements. Cem Karaca would later formed a new band, named Kardaşlar (Brothers), running into the 70s with a clean slate.

[su_youtube_advanced url=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QwkB28QuKk” width=”640″ showinfo=”no” rel=”no”]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wo_VipgxKSk[/su_youtube_advanced]

Cem KARACA – Resimdeki Gözyaşları

Remember Erkin Koray? He moved to Germany to become closer to the spirit of rock’n’roll in the mid 60s, and by his return he was the prototypical rock icon in his looks, lifestyle and music. His song “Çiçekdağı” placed 4th at Golden Microphone 1968. He continued producing hit songs such as “Anma Arkadaş”, “Kızları da Alın Askere” and “Hop Hop Gelsin”, songs whose enduring popularity mean that many Turkish people today still sing them.

As for Barış Manço, he couldn’t join the contest as he was in Belgium studying. However, he was still perhaps the most hardworking rock musician of the 1960s. With the band Les Mistigris, he produced songs while in Belgium and upon returning to Turkey he formed the band, Kaygısızlar. Among all the records he produced in the 1960s, there two records worth taking special note of: “Bien Fait Pour Toi/Aman Avcı Vurma Beni” with Les Mistigris and “Ağlama Değmez Hayat/Kirpiklerin Ok Ok Eyle” with Kaygısızlar, which were Manço’s bestselling record in the 60s.

[su_youtube_advanced url=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkcJ2fYxDJw” width=”640″ showinfo=”no” rel=”no”]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wo_VipgxKSk[/su_youtube_advanced]

Barış MANÇO- Ağlama Değmez Hayat

We examined the birth of “Anatolian Rock”, where electric guitars, bass, and drums meet with bağlama, a traditional stringed folk music instrument, and ney, wind instrument in Turkish classical and sufi music. Whether or not Anatolian Rock was wholly shaped by the state did not matter to the Turkish people who greatly loved this unique sound. Anatolian Rock grew in popularity, peaking in the early years of the 70s. It faded away in the mid 70s due to political turmoil in the country that saw a crescendo with the Turkish coup d’etat that happened on September 12, 1980. That brought on the country’s the darkest years, in which there was no breathing space for any kind of art. Consequently Anatolian Rock music disappeared for good, and lives on in old records and in articles like these.

In colloboration with Min Yi Tan.

Special thanks to Anatolian Rock Revival Project for letting me use their beautiful illustrations.

The Tale of A Love Affair: Concordia Theatre and The St. Anthony of Padua Church

[su_quote] My love (Margaret), remember that felicitous night; that pinewood buss you gave me with delight. You made me madly in love, I hope the same to you; if you dare to deny my love, I’d wish god’s mercy upon you.[/su_quote]

What could be the relationship between a love song, the old Concordia theatre and the St. Anthony church of Padua you wonder?

Hatırla Margarit.. Nihavent Ş.Beste muhlis Sabahattin. Solist: Hanende İbrahim Efendi

The Concordia theatre located in Beyoğlu district of Istanbul was a quite popular entertainment avenue during the time of Sultan Abdulhamid II. It was located on the Cadde-i Kebir, today’s famous Istiklal avenue. Not only was it famous for the dancing and singing acts from Europe, but also the nature of the visitors that came in. Majority of these were generals, lords, wealthy ottomans and Levantines as well as members of the French community of Constantinople.

At that time, there was a British family[1] the Morgans” who were trapeze artists. They performed at the Concordia theatre and during their shows, the youngest daughter Margaret sold postcards of herself to the visitors. She was a beautiful young girl and many men secretly vied for her attention. Among them was the special aide to Sultan Abdulhamid II, Fehim Pasha. Fehim pasha was feared for his infamous involvement in tortures, murders and robberies. It is also believed that Fehim Pasha was part of Sultan Abdulhamid II’ s intelligence and espionage activities.

One day, Fehim Pasha’s father remarked about the Concordia Theatre in Pera’s newest acrobat, the beautiful Margaret. He asked his son so they could go and see for themselves this new member. Fehim Pasha agreed and upon seeing Margaret, he was left in awe. He had fallen in love with her.[2] Margaret soon became the mistress to sultan Abdulhamid II’s most feared aide Fehim Pasha. He went as far as furnishing a mansion the Şişli area of Constantinople for Margaret.

However due to the reputation he had earned overtime, things started moving quite in the opposite direction. It had been a reputation of murder, torture and extortion. Together with his gang of ruffians, he had tortured and bullied merchants for years but his luck was soon to run out when he was confronted by some German merchants.  These merchants in collaboration with the British merchants protested calling for an end to Fehim Pasha’s brutal activities. This saw the intervention of government representatives in the protest that resulted in Fehim Pasha being exiled in Bursa during 1907.[3] Over the following year, the Young Turk revolution broke out thus leading to the overthrow of sultan Abdulhamid II in July 1908. The aftermath involved the arrest and killing of some of sultan Abdulhamid II’s generals. Owing to his background and the nature of events at the time, Fehim Pasha decided to escape from exile but was recognised and stoned to death in the town of Bilecik.

Margarethe and Fehim Pasha

After a while, a tune was being played in the joints around Constantinople. It was song of love that had bloomed prior to all the events. The song was composed by Muhlis Sabahaddin referencing to Margaret and Fehim Pasha’s love affair,

[su_quote]My love, remember that felicitous night…that pinewood buss you gave me with delight…[/su_quote]

The famous Concordia theatre was demolished in the early 18th Century. In its place, a Venetian Neo-Gothic style church, the St. Anthony of Padua church was built between 1906 and 1912.  This symbolises the relationship between the Concordia theatre and the St. Anthony of Padua church whilst giving the meaning behind Muhlis Sabahaddin’s classic “memories of the felicitous night”.

[1] Koçu, E. R. (2003). Hatice Sultan ve Ressam Melling. Margaret Fehim Paşa “Hafiyenin Metresi” (ss. 147-48). Istanbul:Doğan Yayıncılık

[2] Koçu, E. R. (2003). Hatice Sultan ve Ressam Melling. Istanbul: Doğan Yayıncılık

[3] Bardakçı, Murat. (2011, 29 Mayıs). Türkiye’de Paşa tutuklanmalarının 100 küsur senelik hüzünlü tarihi… Erişim tarihi: 05 Temmuz 2016,
www.haberturk.com/yazarlar/murat-bardakci/

20 Movies Set in Istanbul

Istanbul: One word, 8 letters, one city, two continents. A plethora of movies set in this magical place, showing both fascinating and less pleasant faces of Istanbul all over the world. Audiences from Japan to France and Mexico to South Africa gaze at the breathtaking images of the city through the silver screen.

CROSSING THE BRIDGE: THE SOUND OF ISTANBUL (İSTANBUL HATIRASI: KÖPRÜYÜ GEÇMEK)
FATİH AKIN
2005

Thanks to its location between Orient and Occident, being the centre of glorious empires such as Byzantine and Ottoman, Istanbul has a very deep and rich musical heritage. German musician Alexander Hacke and German-Turkish director Fatih Akın teamed up to bring this rich musical culture to the silver scene and their collaboration resulted in the best music documentary ever made about Istanbul. Rock ‘n’ roll, punk, folk, pop, rap, traditional Turkish, Kurdish and Roma music  are all interpreted by Istanbul-based musicians such as Ceza, Orhan Gencebay, Sezen Aksu, Müzeyyen Senar, Duman and Baba Zula. The movie is usually advised to those who are lovers of the music and culture of Turkey, but it is also a visual documentary of Istanbul which shows the city’s old and new, western and eastern, poor and rich, modern and traditional. Despite the criticism that the movie seriously lacks contemporary urban Turkish musicians and misleads the audience about the cultural spreading of Istanbul, “Crossing the Bridge” is always a good start to explore Turkey’s musical culture.

WORLD IS NOT ENOUGH (DÜNYA YETMEZ)
MICHAEL APTED
1999

This is the 19th instalment in the official Bond series, Pierce Brosnan’s third turn as James Bond, and his best one yet – it is a role that no one could ever forget. He is accompanied by Sophie Marceau’s superb acting who portrays Elektra King. Mrs. King’s father is an oil tycoon who is assassinated in an explosion by international terrorist Renard. The British spy James Bond is keen to protect Elektra King from Renard and thus shuttles back and forth between exotic filming locations such as Spain, England, Afghanistan, Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan and Turkey. Of course, Istanbul has a prominent role in the movie. The film includes picturesque scenes in Istanbul with the Bosphorus being the perfect background scenery as well as the famous Maiden’s Tower which functions as Renard’s Turkish lair and the marvellous Küçüksu Pavilion as Electra King’s villa in Baku. The opening scene on the Thames, the scenes and shots in the glorious city of Istanbul, a great plot, one of the best James Bond ever, indeed, the film remains as a masterpiece among all the Bond movies.

THE BANDIT (EŞKIYA)
YAVUZ TURGUL
1996

“A star falls from the sky when a bandit dies, according to an old south-east Anatolian legend…” This legend comes true in this 1996 Turkish film which was written and directed by Yavuz Turgul and starring Şener Şen and Uğur Yücel. This is one of the best movies set in Istanbul, and it is not only because the film is as epic as it is acclaimed, but from its cinematography to the storytelling, from powerful acting to the plot, “the Bandit” is considered as one of the best films to ever have come out of Turkey. Set in central neighbourhoods such as Cihangir, Taksim and Tarlabaşı, the movie tells a story of Baran, an old-style Anatolian bandit, following his release from prison after having served 35 years. He returns to his village only to find it destroyed by a dam. Soon afterwards, he starts a journey to Istanbul in pursuit of taking revenge on his former best friend, Mahmud (Berfo), who ratted on him and escaped to Istanbul with his gold and his woman, Keje. A classic, a real masterpiece, one of the best pictures of Turkish cinema, a must-see movie!

DISTANT (UZAK)
NURİ BİLGE CEYLAN
2004

This glorious film directed by Nuri Bilge Ceylan is the winner of 25 awards including Best Actor at Cannes, Special Jury Prize at Chiago, and Best Balkan Movie at Sophia International Film Festival. Still, this film is not for everybody’s taste. Frankly speaking, watching this movie is a feast only if you love art-house films. Otherwise, it is usually torture and torment as the movie is super realistic, the pace is really slow, and it is pretty long with a simple story. The film follows to two strong characters in Istanbul, one is Mahmut, a middle-aged wealthy and intellectual photographer, and the other one is Mahmut’s cousin, Yusuf, an illiterate and unskilled man, who comes to Istanbul to find a new life after he loses his job in his village. They start to live together in Istanbul and that marks the beginning of a beautiful melancholy. Darkness, pessimism and loneliness exist in the city of millions, this artistic piece of work – “Distant” –  is an observation of frustrating lives of the two characters living in snowy Istanbul.

ISTANBUL UNDER MY WINGS (İSTANBUL KANATLARIMIN ALTINDA)
MUSTAFA ALTIOKLAR
1996

Everybody is familiar with the legendary story of Hezarfen Ahmed Celebi who flew with homemade wings across the Bosphorus from the top of the Galata Tower and landed in the Doğancılar area in Üsküdar as narrated by Evliya Celebi, the 17th century Ottoman traveller. Indeed, Hezarfen Ahmed Celebi had a brother named Logari Hasan Celebi who tied seven rockets onto his back and launched himself into the night sky off, and then falls to the sea nearby Sarayburnu. Their story was adapted to the golden silver by director Mustafa Altıoklar who transports us to 17th century Istanbul, the powerful times of the Ottoman Empire under the rule of Sultan Murad IV, and it is the Renaissance age in Europe where intrigues, love and war alternate with each other in order to make our characters fly across Bosporus and escape from death. In more simple words, the best age ever to be in Istanbul, and it is easy to go, just watch “Istanbul under My Wings”.

ISTANBUL TALES (ANLAT İSTANBUL)
ÜMİT ÖNAL
2005

“Wake up! Everyone, wake up! The fairy-tale’s over! Aren’t you awake yet? I know how to wake you up. Once upon a time, once upon a morning in Istanbul…There was us and there wasn’t. And that’s as far as the fairy tale goes…” says the Turkish Pied Piper while he is walking with his flute on the famous Galata Bridge. Indeed, a Turkish Pier Piper! “Istanbul Tales” modernises five classic fairy-tales that everybody knows; Snow White, Cinderella, Pied Piper, Sleeping Beauty and Little Red Riding Hood. Each of these fairy-tales is interconnected. Lives intersect and influence one another. Don’t expect a Tarantino from Ümit Ünal because that would be very unfair, but this movie is definitely a nice try! The film also allows viewers to meet the city of Istanbul, a city that spans two continents; a metropolis situated at the easternmost point of the West and westernmost point of the East. And it is here that the best-known fairy-tales of the West are enacted once again. Istanbul Tales tells us that there is no such thing as an East-West divide, but that true fairy-tales are the same the world over.

A TOUCH OF SPICE (BAHARATIN TADI)
TASSOS BOULMETIS
2003

There is no other Greek movie that has worshipped this magical city more than Tasos Boulmetis’ Touch of Spice which tells a story of a boy and his family who are forced to leave their lives and their beloved city and settle in Athens. After all, the leading player, Fanis, becomes an astrophysics professor in Athens, but whatever he does, he can’t forget his beloved grandfather in Istanbul who repeatedly promises to visit Athens but never actually does. At the end, Fanis burns the bridges and leaves Athens for Istanbul in expectation to see his grandfather and his first love. Then, the movie introduces us to smells, pictures and feeling that we have never imagined before. A movie that awakens all of our senses and makes us wonder around tastes of Istanbul through the years. “A Touch of Spice” is semi-auto biographical tale of the Greek writer and director Tassos Boulmetis and a must-see film especially for those who are looking for colourful family moments, culinary and Istanbul in a film.

SOMERSAULT in a COFFIN (TABUTTA RÖVAŞATA)
DERVİŞ ZAİM
1996

Despite little expectations, Turkish Cypriot director Derviş Zaim made a movie that is regarded as one of the best films from Turkey and won awards at various film festivals of several countries such as Turkey, Canada, United States, England, Germany and Italy. The film has very original story that tells us about a homeless criminal and car thief who owns nothing in his life. He has no home and work, often nothing to eat, but he has few friends. His only worry is where to sleep and his solution to the problem is unique; he steals cars to sleep inside to stay far from the cold winter nights and drives them back to its first place in the morning. In one of the cold winter days in Istanbul, he falls in love with a heroin addict woman, and with this everything hidden in him comes out. A real work of art! With its original story, interesting characters, powerful acting and soundtracks by world-famous Turkish band Baba Zula, this film is one of the best films in the history of Turkish cinema, without doubt.

CHOLERA STREET (AĞIR ROMAN)
MUSTAFA ALTIOKLAR
1997

Another smash 90s hit from director Mustafa Altıoklar, 1997’s the box office champion, based on a well-known Turkish novel, which depicts the style of living of Turkish gypsies. However, “Cholera Street” is also a unique film on love, lust and revenge. The film follows the story of a family living in one of Istanbul’s faubourg, and the youngest boy of this family, Salih, is the centre of the chain of events in this poor suburb. He falls in love with a prostitute, but this passionate love is accompanied with severe suffering. This is because people need to fight in order to survive in this poor suburb, called Cholera, like the illness that brings only death. From catchy scenes and dialogs to awesome casting, and to excellent story, this film is definitely a must-see for those who want to understand the life in the ghettos of Istanbul in the 90s. The only problem of the film is the language loses its strength when translated because the dialogues include much slang and bad words.

Time to love

TIME TO LOVE (SEVMEK ZAMANI)
METİN ERKSAN
1965

Probably this is the first of its kind as the film stories a man who fell in love with a picture of a woman. A true gem coming from the roots of modern Turkish cinema, the film starts with Halil and his master Mustafa painting a beautiful house in the Princess Islands and while working Halil sees a photograph of a young woman, Meral, and falls in love with it. Upon her arrival on the island, Meral shares the same feelings as Halil. Nevertheless, both destiny and director Metin Erksan’s objection are the reasons, our lovers share a platonic affair as Halil admits that he falls for the photography. Filmed in 1965! Lovely! Heavenly black-white scenes of Istanbul introduce us Occident and Orient, the chaotic battle of these two different identities, two perceptions of love.

FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE (RUSYA’DAN SEVGİLERLE)
TERENCE YOUNG
1963

After the success of “Dr. No”, the movie that introduced the James Bond character to the silver screen, Terence Young’s “From Russia With Love”, the second in the James Bond series, came onto the screen in 1963. Filled with a heavy dose of nonstop action scenes including the great fight scene in the Orient Express train, James Bond goes to Istanbul in his second adventure – to join forces with Kerim Bay and Tatiana Romanova against the Spectre organisation. The cinematography is too wonderful to show vistas of Istanbul. Blue Mosque, Spice Market, Topkapı Palace, Galata Bridge, Golden Horn, Hagia Sofia, Basilica Cistern,  Sirkeci Terminal are some of the places that the notorious agent steps on and introduces to the whole world. There’s also an intelligent plot, great pace, exotic locations, a young Sean Connery, and what’s more that we are given Daniela Bianchi – the best Bond girl ever! This is a must-see because they don’t make Bond films like this anymore!

THE TURKISH BATH (HAMAM)
FERZAN ÖZPETEK
1997

The first of Turkish-Italian director Ferzan Özpetek, this film is carefully and intelligently written and directed. Following the life and journey of a married hip couple to Istanbul, this movie has been classified amongst controversial ones, mostly for its seductive aura and chemistry between two men. Those who can portray beyond the pictures will understand that by introducing the Turkish Hamam to Francesco, a new perception of life has been given to him. Let alone the bittersweet story, the special charms of Istanbul at the centre of the movie. The director makes us wonder at the atmosphere of many centuries through the ancient, full of historical buildings city of Istanbul.  Along with Francesco we take long walks to winding streets and numerous harbours, to a city that seemed chaotic and dirty but turned to be a magical place surrounded by sapphire-blue water.

HEAD-ON (DUVARA KARŞI)
FATİH AKIN
2004

The winner of the top prize – Golden Bear – at the 2004 Berlin Festival, Fatih Akin’s precisely constructed drama, “Head On”, captures a love story laced with tragedy that may make you cry. The film revolves around two Turkish immigrants, Cahit and Sibel, who are hopeless, unhappy and tired of living a fucked-up life in Hamburg. One day, Cahit attempts suicide by driving head-on into wall to the sounds of “I Feel You” from Depeche Mode and after that he is taken to a mental institution where he meets with Sibel who also attempted a suicide. Their meeting ends up with the fake marriage, but Cahit begins to feel love for her, and the jealousy he feels brings tragedy to their lives. The performances of the two protagonists, Birol Güven as Cahit and Sibel Kekilli as Sibel, are the heart of the film that doesn’t obey the rules of classic Hollywood romances.

GIRL ON THE BRIDGE (KÖPRÜDEKİ KIZ)
PATRICE LECONTE
1999

This film follows the story of two half soul characters, a girl and a man. The girl, Adele, is on the edge of the Parisian Bridge, about to jump off, and there is a man’s voice from the dark: “You look like a girl who’s about to make a mistake.” The man, Gabor, is a knife thrower, and suggests her to team up, she has nothing to lose, she accepts. That’s how the love story begins, the viewer leaves Europe where they travel around, and the story which begins on a Parisian Bridge ends on an Istanbulite Bridge. On the Galata Bridge, Gabor stands on the edge, and a woman’s voice comes from the dark: ““You look like a man who’s about to make a mistake.” The events are shown in black and white, which allow the viewer to focus on the characters, and romance, comedy and drama come together in this work of art – from director Patrice Leconte.

TOPKAPI
JULES DASSIN
1964

Director Jules Dassin made a name with the movie “Rififi”, one of the classics of 50s, and to top his own hit Mr. Dassin presented his “Topkapı” film in 1964. Starring Peter Ustinov, Maximillian Schell and Melina Mercouri, this funny movie, which is rich in detail and background, tells a story of a multi-national gang of thieves who attempt to steal fabulous jewelled dagger from the Topkapı Palace Museum in Istanbul. The movie is filled with great locations, beautifully filmed as Dassin’s Istanbul is very exotic and mysterious, and it is also blessed with very fine soundtrack by great composer Manos Hadjidakis. Just for the images of Istanbul in the 1960s which doesn’t exist anymore this movie is definitely a must-watch!

MAGIC CARPET RIDE (ORGANİZE İŞLER)
YILMAZ ERDOĞAN
2005

In the organised crime world of Istanbul, there are mainly two kinds of people; the one who take and the ones who are taken. That’s what Asim Noyan says in “Magic Carpet Ride” movie which revolves around a crime gang that engages various criminal activities in Istanbul. Asım Noyan, the leader of a crime gang, meets the failed comedian Samet, and that’s the moment in the movie when the comedy really begins. Samet finds himself in the lives of gangs and obviously that’s not his place to be. Written and directed by Yılmaz Erdoğan, who also characterises Asim Noyan in the movie, “Magic Carpet Ride” is one of the first films that that use Istanbul’s images as a marketing product. Moreover, nearly ten minutes of film consists of aerial shots of Istanbul. In addition, while many Turkish comedies fails to get a laugh from foreign watchers, “Magic Carpet Ride” succeeds to be Turkish in the feel, but the humour is definitely universal.

RUN FOR MONEY (KAÇ PARA KAÇ)
REHA ERDEM
1999

The second movie from director Reha Erdem, “Run for Money” is a film about how money corrupts people, even the most honest ones. The protagonist of the movie, Selim, leads a monotonous life working in his family shop in the backstreets of Istanbul, but his life changes when he finds a bag with $450,000 dollar left by the taxi’s previous passenger. For the first time in his life Selim follows the wrong side; he takes the bag home and hides the story from his family. He wants to use the money for the good of his family, but however he finds himself only telling lies and doing other bad things he has never done his life. A long journey into the soul begins soon afterwards. Different from most of the movies set in Istanbul, this effective and powerful film focuses on the story more than Istanbul’s picturesque scenes. You can only see the touristic part of Istanbul that composed of Beyoğlu, Karaköy and Fatih.

SKYFALL
SAM MENDES
2012

This is the 23rd instalment in the official Bond series. It is a special movie because it marks the 50th anniversary of world-wide known agent 007 James Bond. The movie star Daniel Craig as James Bond, the film starts with the routine chase, but this time in the old city of Istanbul; he rides his motorbike through the old city of Istanbul, Eminönü Square hosts the next scenes where the British agent guides us through the quaint alleys, then the chase continues on the roof of the Grand Bazaar, making it impossible not to be confused by the endless swapping of images so full of colours and dimensions that can only be compared to well crafted post cards. The routine chase results in Bond being shot and wounded, believed to be dead by M16, but he comes back to scene later and the adventure continues. Despite the heavy criticism by the Bond fans, who thinks the film doesn’t have the feel of a Bond movie, “Skyfall” is worth watching as long as you consider the film individually from the rest of the series!

THE EDGE of HEAVEN (YAŞAMIN KIYISINDA)
FATİH AKIN
2007

There’s a reason why this film won the Best Screenplay award in the 2007 Cannes and was Germany’s entry for the Best Foreign Language Film at the 2007 Oscars. This film is proof that director Fatih Akın’s film-making is of a very high caliber. It is an excellent drama with lots of implications such as politics, migration, family, love, loneliness, alienation, forgiveness and loss. Filled with heartfelt performances, “The Edge of Heaven” tells the stories of 6 characters, 4 Turks and 2 Germans, whose lives are intertwined by fate, and therefore the story shuttles between Turkey and Germany. The most successful part of the film is that the screenplay brilliantly brings each character together. A touching story, there is much sadness in the movie, but yet director Fatih Akin knows how to leave you feeling hopeful and happy at the end. The production shoot was mainly in Bremen and Hamburg in Germany; at Taksim and Kadıköy in Istanbul in Turkey.

WRONG ROSARY (UZAK İHTİMAL)
MAHMUT FAZIL COŞKUN
2009

Some cities in the world, such as Istanbul, never lack unique stories. What can possibly happen when fate unites two people of different cultural and religious backgrounds? In this movie set in Istanbul, the answer of this question is the story itself.  This fine romantic drama presents us the fight between devotion to the duties of a muezzin and his love for a catholic nun. The alternation of sentiments coming from both sides being added to the alluring background carved with pieces of Istanbul turn this movie to a path that leads us to thoughts about love, diversity and companionship. This delicate film won Best Actor, Best Screenplay awards at Istanbul International Film Festival 2009, and a Tiger Award at International Film Festival of Rotterdam 2009.

Millions Gather in Istanbul for Historic Anti-coup Rally

The “Democracy and Martyrs’ Rally”, has been described as the biggest and most crowded political gathering in Turkish political history. The rally took place on August 7th, August 2016 at Istanbul’s Yenikapı Square gathering people from different parts of Istanbul and Turkey at large. Dubbed the “Democracy and Martyrs’ Rally” in response to the late 15th July 2016 failed coup attempt, it was designed to represent the unity of Turkey as one nation.

Thousands of people have been gathering in squares and streets around the country since July 15, when a faction of the Turkish military attempted to seize control of the country. Due to forces loyal to the incumbent President as well as efforts of thousands of Turkish citizens who took to the streets on that night, the attempted coup quashed.

The massive rally to retain democracy and peace in the country resulted in the President, Prime Minister and two main opposition leaders uniting against the coup attempt. President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, Prime Minister Binali Yildirim, as well as the main opposition Republican People’s Party leader Kemal Kilicdaroğlu and Nationalist Movement Party leader Devlet Bahçeli were present at the rally.

Anti-coup Rally Istanbul

Erdogan had earlier announced that the rally was billed as a cross-party event representing Turkish unity. He urged those attending the rally to bring with them only the Turkish flag instead of the party banners. Consequently, the Yenikapı meeting area was transformed into a sea of red and white representative of the Turkish flag.

The event began with a moment of silence for the 270 people who were lost their lives while opposing the coup. This was followed by the Turkish national anthem and a recitation of prayers. Republican People’s Party leader Kilicdaroğlu and Nationalist Movement Party leader Devlet Bahçeli then addressed the rally before handing the stage to Prime Minister Binali Yıldırım and later on President Recep Tayyip Erdogan. The event was simultaneously broadcast on giant screens in different provinces of Turkey while those in the major cities gathered together to watch the rally.

The event was simultaneously broadcast on giant screens in all Turkey’s provinces, and crowds of thousands gathered to watch in the major cities.

The Legends Behind The Foundation of Istanbul

Every magnificent city is surrounded by mystery. Not only the mystery that emanates from its already astounding atmosphere, but also the legends and myths behind its foundation. For a city like Istanbul with such a cultural magnitude, it is seminal to know something about the cradle of its creation. Otherwise as a tourist, one will simply visit a few common places whilst missing out on the grains of civilisation and culture that are spread in different corners of Istanbul.  It is only a trained eye that can observe these subtle aspects.

In our article today, we will look at the three most significant myths or legends behind the evolution of the great city of Istanbul, starting from the ancient times through to the most recent perceptions.

The Legend of the fairies

Before the creation of humans, fairies are said to have lived on earth. Their lifestyle was quite similar to the human life of today especially when it came to organising celebrations like wedding ceremonies. In one of the fairies, two fairies fell in love and wanted to get married. The father of the girl gave a precondition that the boy’s father would construct a beautiful palace for the future bride and groom in the most beautiful part of the world. Upon agreeing to this precondition, the groom’s father set out to travel around the world looking for a magnificent spot. He settled in Istanbul thus building a beautiful palace for his son and future bride in Istanbul. On completion of the palace, the groom’s father sent a message to the girl’s father informing him about the palace and its beauty. The girl’s father was very much in awe of the palace’s beauty and Istanbul where the palace had been built that he agreed to give his daughter’s hand in marriage. It is said that Istanbul was then founded in the Bosphorus which is one of the world’s most beautiful places.

Megaryan Byzas’ legend

According to this legend, the Megarians living in Greece decided to found a city under the leadership of Byzas. They however did not know where they could found the city. Upon consultation with the oracle of Delphi, the oracle replied that “There is an area across the land of the blind, found the city on that area”. The Megarians then set out to find the land of the blind under the leadership of their president going as far as the coasts of what is today known as Sarayburnu. Reaching here, they were captivated by the unique beauty of the scenery. Byzas later caught sight of Kadıköy and his thoughts were that it was surely the land of the blind, since the people who had left this beautiful spot and settled on the opposite coast must certainly have been blind. Remembering oracle’s words “there is a place across the land of the blind”, Byzas was convinced that he had found the place he was looking for. He was determined to build his city on this unique land with seven hills that within no time, the city was founded and named after its first founder Byzas.

Although it’s a legend about the foundation of a city that we have inherited over ages in different forms, it does not cast any real light on the facts surrounding the initial foundation of the city. According to a much older local legend, the Thracian king Byzas who was the son of the nymph Semestra married Phidaleia, daughter of Barbyzos, king of the region near Istanbul. It is this lady who is said to have founded Byzantium or Istanbul.

The Legend relating to Zeus’ lover

According to another legend quite similar to the legend of the Megaryan Byzas, Zeus’ lover, the chief of all the ancient Greek gods decided to turn herself into a cow so as to escape the wrath of Zeus’ vengeful wife Hera. During her flight, she gave birth to a daughter Keroessa on the banks of the Golden Horn. Keroessa was brought up by the nymph Semestra. In the course of events, she gave birth to the son of the sea god Poseidon whom she named Byzas. Byzas was brought up by the naiad Byzia.  It is possible to corroborate this legend with Istanbul’s geography as one will encounter the names Byzas and Keroessa in various forms among the names of very old places in Anatolia. This perhaps demonstrates that the legend originates from events that took place in the depths of Anatolia’s history.

The first legend could be connected to the Greek migrations that took place between 750 and 550 BC, which are certainly not related to the city’s initial foundation. The probability is that during these migrations, a new Greek city was founded around 660 BC in what is now Istanbul circa. And it is from there that the present city developed. These legends fortify the pleasant uncertainty specific to this city of wonder which keeps its habitants and visitors connected at all times. It is an undeniable aura of mystery that continues to float over the architectural grandeur of Istanbul, amplifying its beauty and eternal metamorphosis.

Istanbul: The City of Water

As a traveller, a person can understand the significance of water in relation to life. The history of exploration mainly started with strong ships that were able to cover long distances and face the difficulties of voyage. Many historic cities that were and still are centres of civilisations with world trade routes passing through them, were shaped by the water source around them. The water sources gave them importance and value, which shaped them into becoming centres of trade and empires. With the advancement of naval technology, the regions along the sea and rivers became lands of opportunities and arenas for wars among many kingdoms.

Istanbul is one of the most beautiful and important cities, which is located along the meeting place of the Marmara Sea in the south, the Black Sea in the north, and connected through the magnificent Bosphorus Strait. This connecting body of water is important for many reasons for both the city in particular and for international commerce in general. The beautiful Golden Horn is an estuary of this strait, which has been key in the past for defending the historic Istanbul city from many powers, for many centuries, and under many empires. Today, the city of Istanbul is one of the most famous tourist destinations in the world because of its beauty, history and centrality. The famous Topkapı Palace can be seen near the western shore of the Marmara Sea, with beautiful views of both the Bosphorus and the Marmara Sea. Neighbourhoods such as, Büyükçekmece, Zeytinburnu, Bakırköy, Beşiktaş and Sarıyer are famous because they are located on the European side of Istanbul’s Bosphorus Strait, while their counterpart’s Beykoz, Üsküdar, Kadıköy, Maltepe, Pendik and the Princess Islands are famous for being located on the Asian side of the city respectively.

A beautiful art piece of the Bosphorus by an artist showing the life along the strait
A beautiful art piece of the Bosphorus by an artist showing the life along the strait

The importance of water in Istanbul is evident through its landscapes and growth, along main areas where city centres have shifted with the flow of tourists and presence of historic buildings. People living around theses localities have the nature of water as well. This is evident after spending some time with the locals in the city. They are very polite and humble like the Bosphorus and at times get violent like the crushing waves of Marmara Sea. The ferry routes through this water surface connect the European and Asian parts of the city for the daily commuters and tourists. The Bosphorus boat tours are one of the main components of travelling in the city and is taken by locals and tourists to see and feel the real beauty of the body of water that divides two continents and also joins them. The historic buildings along the water path are of great value for historians and for artists as well. Many famous writers, singers and historians have created their magical words by visiting the surroundings areas in the city. Nights on the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn and the Marmara Sea create a magical feeling and with an exceptional glow from the moon, the city nights feel out of this world. From this, many beautiful songs and stories were produced which stole the hearts of people with a mesmerising effect.

Many artists indicated the role of water in the lives of people in Istanbul through their paintings, pictures, stories, poems and songs. The emotions and feelings that emerged from their creative souls under the magical places of water around Istanbul are depicted in their creativity in various forms of art. Francis Marion Crawford wrote about the beauty of Istanbul crafted by the bodies of water located within and around the city in his book, Constantinople, dated in 1895. He illustrated the relationships of public celebrations connected to the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn during the historic events of the late 19th century with the changing infrastructures in Istanbul.

Gülhan Benli, from the faculty of engineering and architecture at Istanbul Aydın University, writes about the history of the Kağıthane River. This open area was called the Kağıthane Promenade. It hosted various entertainments in the beginning of the 1600s and remained its popularity among the people of Istanbul for several centuries later. According to ancient Turkish traditions, the 6th of May was accepted as the coming of spring. On the 6th of May, during the Hıdrellez Festivals, hundreds of people from all over Istanbul would visit the Kağıthane River on boats and carts. The river passing in the middle of the area enabled a convenient atmosphere for boat rides. Huge clothes, rugs, and carpets were also laid on the ground to sit on, either under the shades of huge plane trees, under the drooping willows and/or under the poplar trees on the banks.

Thus the city of water, Istanbul, is one of the prime destinations for artists, explorers, writers, historians, geographers, travellers, hippies, nature lovers, traders and many more people. It is so beautiful and full of wonders that it can be only felt through self experience after visiting the city. Those who visit Istanbul once always fall in love with the city and are pulled again and again by its magical beauty. The city is filled with beauty and life, which is why it has been the centre of cultures in the past, is currently making its presence in the world, and will have a significant presence in the future as well. Istanbul and water cannot be separated as they are essential for each other, creating the magic spell that engulfs its inhabitants keeping them in constant love with the city.

The Name of Bosphorus Bridge Changes

July 15 Coup Attempt left 290 people dead and about 1200 people wounded. In Istanbul, Bosphorus Bridge was the centre of the incidents took place during the coup attempt on July, 15th. As it can be remembered, putschist soldiers crossed the Bosphorus Bridge at around 10 p.m. and opened fire on people who rush into the bridge by the call of President Erdoğan in order to take a stand against coup. During the incidents on the bridge, tens of people lost their lives and got wounded as the result of opened fire.

Council of Ministers held a meeting on 25th July, and decided to rename Bosphorus Bridge “15th July Martyrs’ Bridge”. After the meeting, Prime Minister Yıldırım made important statements in a press conference, announced that Istanbul’s Bosphorus Bridge will be renamed as 15th July Martyrs’ Bridge in the name and honour of civilians who lost their lives while they are standing against the coup attempt on the bridge.

20 of the Best Books Set in Istanbul

Nobody seems to love Istanbul as much as authors. This does not come as a surprise! Istanbul is a storyteller’s emporium of possibility… Some of the greatest Turkish literature masterpieces have been set in Istanbul, and this trend has continued with contemporary authors in recent years. As expected, there are thousands of books set in Istanbul, which brings us to the question; “Where should I start reading?” Here is a selection of 20 favourite Istanbul based novels.

 

CONSTANTINOPLE by EDMONDO DE AMICIS

CONSTANTINOPLE by EDMONDO DE AMICISItalian writer starts his travel classic with the question “Who could dare to describe Constantinople?” and answers his own question with memorable and a highly influential book about the city, “Constantinople”, published in 1877. Of course, Constantinople was depicted by oceans of 19th century western travellers, but among all, De Amicis’ remarkable account is probably the one of the best ever written. Not only does it enlighten readers how the city looked like during the late 19th century but also shows us the Westerns’ reaction to it. Orhan Pamuk, the first Turkish Nobel laureate, also praised the Amicis’ Constantinople travelogue by saying that it is his most favourite account of 19th century Istanbul.

 

THE ATLAS OF MISTY CONTINENTS by İHSAN OKTAY ANAR

THE ATLAS OF MISTY CONTINENTSAnar’s first novel, a historical fantasy-fiction supported by historical facts, “The Atlas of Misty Continents” is definitely one of the best come out of Turkey. The book takes you on a journey through 17th century Istanbul which is depicted in a mysterious way. As you turn the pages of the book one by one, you are more included in the fairytale-like atmosphere of the Istanbul of 1681. The story begins with sailor Arap İhsan’s entrance to Konstantiniye, and then the reader is introduced to more and more interesting characters that shape the story. Together with them, the reader drinks at the meyhanes in Galata, yells on the streets, visit the courtyards of Sultan’s palaces and shops in the Armenian and Greek neighbourhoods. Delightful to read, this is easily bound to be one of your favourite books about Istanbul.

 

ISTANBUL PASSAGE by JOSEPH KANON

ISTANBUL PASSAGE by JOSEPH KANONThere is no better place for a spy novel than Istanbul, as the city spent the World War II times as a magnet for spies from almost every country. Joseph Kanon, who is famous for his spy novels, knew this very well and set his novel in Istanbul, one of the most fascinating cities on the planet. His book has a story that revolves around an American undercover agent, Leon Bauer, who is a businessman living in Istanbul. He has long been working for the American embassy, and now asked for one last mission which is picking up a mysterious Romanian refugee and delivering him through to the West. While Joseph Kanon is telling the story, he also moves his protagonist back and forth all over the city, which enjoys his readers by exploring 1940s Istanbul, when the Bosphorus Bridge even didn’t exist and people were crossing the strait by boat.

 

FORBIDDEN LOVE by HALİT ZİYA UŞAKLIGİL

FORBIDDEN LOVE by HALIT ZIYA USAKLIGIL‘Forbidden Love’ (Aşk-ı Memnu) is the first Turkish novel and considered as the most successful work of Halid Ziya Uşaklıgil who was an influential writer that infused a Western style into Turkish novels. Written at the end of the 19th century, this realist-naturalist novel was first serialised in 1899 and 1990 in Serveti- Fünun magazine, and even though more than 110 years have passed, one would read this novel with great pleasure. The book is very important for reflecting the status of women and morality of Istanbul’s high society during the final years of the Ottoman Empire. The story of the novel is very simple; Bihter, a beautiful lady who has always dreamed of high living, marries with rich widower Adnan Bey, but things become hectic when she begins a love affair with Adnan Bey’s nephew, Behlül, who decided to marry her cousin, Nihal, after having a forbidden love affair with Bihter. The chain of events ends with Bihter’s suicide eventually.

 

A USELESS MAN by SAİT FAİK ABASIYANIK

A USELESS MAN by SAIT FAIK ABASIYANIKConsidered as the “Turkey’s Chekhov”, his name was given to most prestigious short story award, the Sait Faik Price, and there’s a museum dedicated to the father of Turkish short story on Burgazada, the third largest of the Princes’ Islands in the Marmara Sea. Frankly speaking, Sait Faik Abasıyanık is one of the most important names in the Turkish literature, and his ‘A Useless Man: Selected Stories’, translated by Maureen Freely and Alexander Dawe, consists of his 14 selected stories which centre around village and urban life in Istanbul in the first half of the 20th century. Istanbul is a character itself in each story which is written successfully that can be read in the span of a short time.

 

A CARRIAGE AFFAIR by RECAİZADE MAHMUT EKREM  

A CARRIAGE AFFAIR by RECAIZADE MAHMUT EKREM Recaizade Mahmud Ekrem is one of the most important Ottoman writers of the 19th century. His most famous novel “The Carriage Affair”, written in 1896, is now regarded as the first contemporary work of Turkish Literature. This realist satire portrays the late 19th century Ottoman intellectuals who desire to imitate the Western life but nevertheless their efforts usually result with tragicomic confusion as the identity of the modern Turk is fragmented by the Westernisation reforms within the empire. Set in Istanbul around 1870, the book follows adventures of a super westernised dandy, Bihruz Bey, a son of Ottoman Pasha, a “European-style snob”, whose habits, daily routines and the love affairs are recounted to the readers as a criticism of period.

 

KAMIL PASHA SERIES by JENNY WHITE

The Sultan’s Seal by Jenny WhiteJenny White, novelist and social anthropologist, pens the Kamil Pasha series, which consists of three books called “The Sultan’s Seal”, “The Abyssinian Proof” and “The Winter Thief”, published in 2006, 2008 and 2010. They are historical murder mysteries centre around the main fictional character, Kamil Pasha, a local magistrate, who makes investigations into crimes in the heart of the Ottoman Empire.  In the first novel “The Sultan’s Seal”, Kamil Pasha investigates the murder of an English woman found naked and murdered. In the second novel “The Abyssinian Proof”, Kamil Pasha seeks to solve the mystery of the disappearance antiquities and sacred objects from mosques and churches, and in the last novel “The Winter Thief”, the discovery of a shipment of illegal arms and robbery at the Imperial Ottoman Bank leads Kamil Pasha to prevent a massacre of a commune and villages in the Eastern Turkish mountains.

 

THE CLOWN and HIS DAUGHTER by HALİDE EDİP ADIVAR

THE CLOWN and HIS DAUGHTERHalide Edip Adıvar was a writer, scholar, and feminist who fought for Turkish independence in Ataturk’s army as well as the rights of women and their emancipation during her life. She originally published her novel “The Clown and His Daughter” in English in 1935, and the following year she translated it into Turkish and published as “Sinekli Bakkal” which is a name of the poor neighbourhood in Aksaray in Istanbul during the Sultan Abdulhamid era. Halide Edip was given a literary prize for her book “The Clown and His Daughter” in 1942 when the book won international fame and went through 25 editions. Required reading in many high schools in Turkey, the novel tells the story of Tevfik, the owner of the grocer and a shadow theatre fan, who was forced to marry with Emine, the daughter of the Sinekli Bakkal neighbourhood’s Imam. Their relationship lasts a short time, Emine returns back to her father’s house, and meanwhile Tevfik is sent to exile.

 

A MIND AT PEACE by AHMET HAMDİ TANPINAR

A MIND AT PEACEOrhan Pamuk claims that “A Mind at Peace” is “the best Istanbul novel ever written”. Originally published in 1949 in the daily newspaper Cumhuriyet, “A Mind at Peace” is a love story that set in Istanbul on the eve of World War II, and regarded as the symbol of Turkey’s conflict between the Westernisation and Ottoman Islam. The novel is set up in four parts, and each titled as a character in the novel: Ihsan, Nuran, Suad, Mümtaz. The protagonist is Mümtaz who lost his parents during the Turkish War of Independence and he goes to live in Istanbul with his cousin Ihsan who teaches at the French Lycee. He falls in love with Nuran, they decide to get married, but at that moment Mümtaz’s friend, Suad, who is an admirer of Nuran, appears and destroys the relationship between Nuran and Mümtaz.

 

CHOLERA STREET by METİN KAÇAN

CHOLERA STREET by METIN KACANMetin Kaçan, whose much of writings deals with life in poor quarters of Istanbul, is one of the most well-known writers of contemporary Turkish literature. In 1990, he published his first book, “Ağır Roman” (Cholera Street), which immediately became a best-seller in Turkey, and with the same name it was turned into a 1997 Turkish movie directed by Mustafa Altıoklar. In his book the author narrates the love affair between a young car mechanic and a prostitute as well as livings of mix of inhabitants from different ethnic, cultural and religious backgrounds in a rundown neighbourhood of Istanbul called Dolapdere. By the way, “Cholera Street” was written in a language that is very local and full of slang, which makes the book difficult to read for ordinary reader.

 

A MEMENTO FOR ISTANBUL by AHMET ÜMİT

A MEMENTO FOR ISTANBULTurkish novelist Ahmet Ümit, the writer of best-selling books “A Rhapsody of Beyoğlu” and “A Memento for Istanbul”, is most known for his success on depicting the darkest sides of Turkish society and history. His novel, “A Memento for Istanbul”, a national bestseller, published in 2010, and translated into English a year later, and it was critically acclaimed as well as commercially successful. The book narrative drives of a crime police procedural, but however what makes it amazing is definitely the historical information of Istanbul. With the placing of the murder victims at the various cultural sites of Istanbul, the author takes readers on a two-thousand-year journey from Byzantium to present, and also gives so much detail of Istanbul’s iconic architectures.

 

THE JANISARRY TREE (Yashim the Eunuch # 1) by JASON GOODWIN

THE JANISARRY TREE by JASON GOODWINThe first book of the Investigator Yashim series, the Janissary Tree is a historical mystery novel set in Istanbul in the mid-19th century. In detail, the novel takes place in 1836, ten years after the so-called Auspicious Event, the forced disbandment of the Janissary corps by Sultan Mahmud II, and the core of the novel is the disappearance of four young officers in the Sultan Mahmud’s new westernised Army. The main character, Yashim the Eunuch, is called to the Sultan’s palace by the general of the New Guards and assigned to find who is behind the mystery. Meanwhile, the Sultan’s newest concubine is murdered just before her first night with the Sultan and the Sultan’s mother loses her prised jewellery. Yashim now has to investigate three different cases which are related to each other. An excellent story by Jason Goodwin, the Janissary Tree won an Edgar Award for Best Novel 2007 and has been translated into over 40 languages.

 

AZIYADE by PIERRE LOTI

AZIYADE by PIERRE LOTIJulian Viaud, a French naval officer writing under the alias of Pierre Loti, was well known author who was known for his exotic novels. His first novel “Aziyade” is semi-autobiographical book based on a diary that was kept by Pierre Loti during his stay in Greece and Istanbul in the fall and winter of 1876. He was very young man when he first came to Constantinople. He fell immediately the influence of the melancholic charms of Istanbul, but not only that, he also fell in love with 18-year-old Aziyade, a Circassian harem girl. The book narrates the story of Pierre Loti’s Constantinople adventure; the story of Loti’s love affair with Aziyade, his friendship with a Spanish man Samuel, as well as his love affair with Turkish culture. With good descriptions and details, “Aziyade” promises to take its readers journey through the 19th century Istanbul. The only known English translation is by Marjorie Laurie which can be found in many editions.

 

THE BIRDS HAVE ALSO GONE by YAŞAR KEMAL

THE BIRDS HAVE ALSO GONEDefinitely not one of his best works, Yaşar Kemal’s “The Birds Have Also Gone” (Kuşlar da Gitti) is a short novel, only about 150 pages, from one of Turkey’s leading writers and internationally recognised author who has been a candidate for the Nobel Prize for Literature with his masterpiece “Memed, My Hawk”. In this novel, Yaşar Kemal focuses on an ancient Turkish belief that anyone who set free a bird is secured a place in paradise. From this idea, three boys attempt to make a business of sale of birds, as expected, it fails as Istanbul people no longer want to buy the birds and set them free.  In this wonderful little novel Yaşar Kemal wants to show to readers that how life in Istanbul is changing, and criticises the end of humanism in modern society masterfully.

ISTANBUL: MEMORIES OF A CITY by ORHAN PAMUK

ISTANBUL: MEMORIES OF A CITYThose who already read Pamuk’s first novel, “The Black Book”, would remember the author’s apartment in the Nişantaşı quarter where he grew up. This book takes us to the same place to portray the first twenty-two years of the Nobel Prize-winning author’s life. He also gives the reader an insider’s view of Istanbul by taking them deep into the Istanbul’s back streets which tourists usually don’t see. Same like his most of writings, Orhan Pamuk again describes the city as a conflict between East and West, and again he wants to guide the reader through his spiritual world which helps the readers to learn the construction process of Orhan Pamuk as a writer.

 

THE BASTARD OF ISTANBUL by ELİF ŞAFAK

THE BASTARD OF ISTANBULAccused of insulting “Turkishness” in The Bastard of Istanbul, Turkey’s leading female novelist almost ended up in jail for three years. Originally written in English, and then translated by Aslı Biçen into her Turkish, “The Bastard of Istanbul” was published under the title “Baba ve Piç” in 2006 in Turkey, where it became a bestseller in a short time. The novel was also adapted into a theatre play in Italy by Angelo Savelli titled “La Bastarda Di Istanbul”, and was staged by Teatro di Rifredi in Florence. In this well-known novel, the author Elif Şafak brings political and critical touch to the story that centres on a Turkish girl, Asya Kazancı, and Armenian boy, Armanoush Tchakhmakhchian, who travels to Istanbul to search for her Armenian roots. Set in California and Istanbul, the novel deals with the events of 1915 and the Turkish-Armenian Controversy

 

SONGS MY MOTHER NEVER TAUGHT ME by SELÇUK ALTUN

SONGS MY MOTHER NEVER TAUGHT METhe first of his three novels, “Songs My Mother Never Taught Me” has a story that alternately told by Arda, a 27-year old heir of a wealthy family, who feels freedom with the death of his mother, and Bedirhan, a poor orphan, who has decided end his ten-year career as professional assassin. As expected, their paths eventually cross, however, before that happens, Selçuk Altun takes us on a journey through the forgotten landmarks, monuments, gravestones, and neighbourhoods of old Istanbul.  “A remarkable thriller that takes us through the streets of Istanbul” – as it was described by the publisher, Selçuk Altan’s first book is fun and it gives a tangible sense of modern Istanbul.

 

LAST TRAIN TO ISTANBUL by AYŞE KULİN

LAST TRAIN TO ISTANBULNo need to praise the book as it is an international bestseller. The story begins in Ankara in 1941. Selva, a Muslim daughter of one of last Ottoman pashas, meets with Rafael, a handsome Jewish man, and they fell in love with each other. They get married against their family’s wishes and then move to France. Only a few years later, when the Nazis invade France, the couple faces serious threats to their lives, and with the help of brave Turkish diplomats, who risked their lives to help Jews, they try to escape from France to Turkey by a special train. Based on true events with fictional characters, “Last Train to Istanbul” is a phenomenal World War II novel set in Turkey and France, and it sheds light on a piece of history that about Turkey’s position during the World War II; they tried to stay neutral but were on the horns of a dilemma due to demands of the Allies and the Axis.

 

ISTANBUL NOIR by MUSTAFA ZİYALAN

ISTANBUL NOIR by MUSTAFA ZIYALANAnother in the series of noir anthologies published by Akashic Books, the creator of the original noir anthologies in the world, the “Istanbul Noir” is comprised of 16 different new stories by some of Turkey’s most popular authors such as Barış Müstecaplıoğlu, Müge İplikçi, Behçet Çelik, Algan Sezgintüredi, Hikmet Hükümenoğlu, Lydia Lunch, Yasemin Aydınoğlu, Sadık Yemni, Feryal Tilmaç, İnan Çetin, Jessica Lutz and Mustafa Ziyalan. The authors do an excellent job introducing readers to Istanbul’s darker side and give some unexpected insights; those who would love to learn the neighbourhoods, traditions, issues of religion, culture and history of the city as well as its people wouldn’t be disappointed reading this book.

 

LOSERS’ TALE by HIKMET TEMEL AKARSU

LOSERS’ TALE by HIKMET TEMEL AKARSU The first of Akarsu’s “Istanbul Quartet” series, “Losers’ Tale” made tremendous impact in 1998, the year it was published, and became one of the classic novels of the literary underground in the following years.  The story mainly set in the Kadıköy district and its surroundings, and talks about people who frequent underground locations and choose to be rebels along the lines of the “Losers’ Club”. It is a captivating novel about loneliness, alienation and counterculture. Moreover, it throws light upon the society influenced by the economic crisis in Turkey in the 1990s.

Game of Ottoman Thrones

George R.R. Martin once claimed that “No matter how much I make up, there’s stuff in history that is just as bad, or worse”. Eh, it is a scary thought but also the truth. Considering Ottoman history, there’re some events in the series that bears stark similarities and some book’s characters make a historical parallel with some Sultans, Sultanas, Sehzades (Princes), Grand Viziers and Pashas. Here are five tragic events from the history of the Ottoman Empire.

 

THE POISONED KING (KING JOFFREY – SULTAN BAYEZID II)

Who wouldn’t remember the night when Game of Thrones fans danced happily in front of their TVs to celebrate the death of King Joffrey? Unfortunately, the young, sadistic and cowardly king was poisoned during his wedding feast. The same terms can be used to describe Sultan Bayezid II’s character. What was different though? He couldn’t escape sharing the same death as Joffrey, but he also didn’t know he had a son like Ramsey Bolton.

In the last years of Sultan Bayezid’s life, he had three sons who were princes; Ahmed, the governor of Amasya, Korkut of Antalya and Selim of Trabzon. Among the three princes, Ahmed was closest to the Ottoman throne. As he was the eldest son, his province was the closest to the capital and his father the Sultan, and Ottoman statesmen were in favour of him. Nevertheless, the other two princes were making plans of their own to reach the Ottoman throne.

While tensions were high, one day, the messengers were sent to Prince Ahmed to invite him to the capital to be a Sultan. He marched towards the capital but couldn’t set foot in the city. The Janissaries, who loved Prince Selim, were rebelling against the palace, declaring their preference for a more suitable sultan. In despair, Ahmed returned back to Anatolia where he began contriving plans of his own. At this juncture, Prince Selim played the Sultan’s game; he asked the Janissaries to raise their voice for a military intervention against the rebellious Prince Ahmed and declare that they wanted Selim as a commander of the army.

Sultan Bayezid thought he could placate the cries of the Janissaries by sending Selim as a commander, but his efforts were to no avail. Once Selim arrived to the capital, he changed his tune and asked his father to abdicate the throne in favour of him. Having no other option, because of the pressures of the Janissaries, Sultan Bayezid obeyed the request thus, becoming the first deposed Sultan in Ottoman history. He was immediately exiled but couldn’t make it beyond Büyükçekmece, only 40 km away from the city, where he eventually died. He was said to be poisoned by his Jewish doctor on his son’s orders.

Ottoman Thrones 02

 

THE TRUE HERO (JON SNOW – SEHZADE MUSTAFA)

Jon Snow is everybody’s hero. Everybody loves him because he is 100 percent good. He’s kind, handsome, smart, brave, a fearsome warrior and honorable. If you remember for almost ten months’ people mourned his death and begged for him to be brought back. What a love people had for him! The same goes for Sehzade Mustafa. There is no event in the history of the Ottoman Empire that still saddens the Turks more than the execution of him.

Prince Mustafa, the first child of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, had a character that was very similar to Jon Snow. He was a popular hero amongst the people, scholars and the Janissaries. He was expected to be the next Sultan by the Janissaries, who created a deep and emotional bond with him. However, he didn’t play the game of thrones properly and he lost his head for it.

Roxelana (Hurrem Sultan), who was a figure like “Cersei”, wanted one of her sons to succeed the Sultan; otherwise, her sons would be executed by Mustafa according to the Ottoman succession tradition. Prince Mustafa was an enemy who had to be taken care of and for this Roxelana allied with the Grand Vizier Rustem Pasha, her son-in-law, who was a figure similar to “Petyr Baelish”. Together, they made the Sultan believe that Mustafa was planning to usurp the throne. The proud Sultan remembered well that his own father had gained the throne by a coup. As expected, he didn’t want to go down in history as a deposed sultan.

-He announced a campaign against the Savefid Empire, and on the way he decided to settle in a town in the Konya province. Rustem Pasha sent a messenger to Sehzade Mustafa to call him to join his father’s army. Despite all advice’s given, Mustafa, who was stupidly honourable, turned a deaf ear and appeared in the camp to meet with his Sultan father. When he entered his father’s tent, he didn’t find his father waiting, instead he found deaf and mute executioners who were waiting to strangle the unfortunate prince to death.

Ottoman Thrones 01

 

THE MAD KING (KING AERYS II TARGERYAN – SULTAN IBRAHIM)

King Aerys II Targaryen, better known as “the Mad King”, was a crazed ruler who wanted to burn King’s Landing and everyone in it.  Ibrahim, the 18th Ottoman Sultan, may not have asked to burn the capital city of Istanbul with all the Istanbulites in it, but he didn’t get the title “Mad” for nothing. He was one of the most unique characters who sat on the Ottoman throne.

Ibrahim the Mad was released from the “Cage”, where he spent  23 years in fear of death, and succeeded his brother Murad IV, who had executed his three other brothers. He left Ibrahim because he was too mad to be a threat; at least, that was what his mother Kösem Sultan said. Once in power, Kösem Sultan began running the empire, and Sultan Ibrahim immediately built up a harem of virgins and spent his entire time with them. Despite the excessive number of women in his harem, the rumours say that Ibrahim kidnapped the daughter of the Grand Mufti, the highest religious leader in the empire, and sent her back to her father’s house after a few days.

Another rumour states that the lunatic, Sultan, lusted for fat woman and he ordered his servants to find the heaviest lady in all of the land. His servants returned with a 150 kilo woman named “Sugar Cube”. She became the Sultan’s most favourite one. This woman was said to be the protagonist of one of the strangest harem stories ever heard, as Ibrahim had his entire harem put in sacks and thrown in the Bosphorus because she had said so. Still, Ibrahim’s crazy decisions had neither beginning nor end. He also has strange habits such as, giving important positions to whomever he loved, acquiring all the gold and jewels as well as exotic ambergris, which he used for drenching his beard, clothes and room hangings, and above all he was obsessed with furs. He wanted to see furs everywhere in Topkapı Palace, insomuch that even the cats were dressed in furs on orders of him.

While the empire was in crisis, the tales of Ibrahim’s madness provoked the Janissaries to mutiny. His mother Kösem Sultan did nothing to save her son. The Janissaries marched to Topkapı Palace and demanded the Sultan’s head. Ibrahim was captured and put in the “Cage” meanwhile Mehmed VI, Ibrahim’s 7-year-old son, was declared Sultan. Tragicomically, the first action of the young sultan was to sign his father’s death warrant! In the end, Ibrahim the Mad was strangled by a gang of assassins in Topkapı Palace.

Ottoman Thrones 03

 

THE RAINS OF CASTAMERE (THE RED WEDDING – AUSPICIOUS EVENT)

You may probably remember the Red Wedding massacre, the most shocking and horrific scene in Game of Thrones. It was without doubt a night to remember because Robb Stark, the King in the North, most of his banner-men and men-at-arms, were murdered during the massacre. This was the end of the Stark’s reign in the North. Although, the way how the event took place is not similar, the “Auspicious Incident” in Ottoman history is just as shocking, horrifying and bloody, as the Red Wedding.

The Janissary Corps in the 14th century was one of the first regular armies in Europe. They were lionhearted soldiers, passed from victory to victory, and made the Ottomans one of the greatest empires in history. However, this was not the case by the 17th century. They accustomed to a civilian lifestyle, making themselves landholders and tradesman, who were able to marry and have children, and as expected there was no way to see their power in the battlefield anymore. What they were doing best was changing Ottoman sultans through palace coups whenever they wished. Sultan Mahmud II decided to end this corruption but his wish was dangerous because if the Janissaries learnt of it, his head would have been taken.

As an intelligent and tireless youth, he planned and played the chess game masterfully. He appointed his loyal men to the key positions in the corps and next he gained the support of palace officials and scholars in return of rewarding them with important positions in the new army. Sick of the abuses of the Janissaries, of course, citizens of Istanbul were ready to help the Sultan too. The Sultan finally put his plans into action in June of 1826, while waiting for the right moment. The rumors that the Sultan was going to form a new army according to the latest European standards spread through the city by the sultan’s agents. The Janissaries who heard the news immediately mutinied as usual.

While the Janissaries were stirring up trouble on the streets, the standard of the Prophet was displayed and all the men in honour were called to fight against the rebellious Janissaries. The Sultan’s loyal troops opposed the Janissaries and forced them to retire to their barracks. That was the moment when the slaughter began. Huge bombardment and oil rags were fired and as expected flames spread rapidly and engulfed the wooden barracks. The Janissary soldiers who didn’t die in the flames were shot down as they tried to escape from the chaos. With a military action that lasted less than six hours from start to finish, rebellious Janissaries were destroyed in the capital. There were very few Janissaries who succeeded to escape from the city but nevertheless, the Sultan’s agents pursued and hunted them down wherever they were.

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DELICOUSLY EVIL MOTHER (CERSEI LANNISTER – KOSEM SULTAN)

People love to hate Cersei Lannister. She stands powerful in a world that is dominated by men because she is extremely ambitious and a fearless woman who doesn’t fear doing devilish acts when necessary. Cersei’s historical parallel in Ottoman history is Kösem Sultan with only one exception. Cersei uses her devious and cunning mind to protect her sons but Kösem Sultan does only to be Sultana, by any means necessary.

After her husband, Sultan Ahmed I died, she found herself in the midst of political chaos. From then on, she used her wits, which had a far greater effect than a Sultan using his army, money or his leadership. As expected of her, she eliminated her opponents by any way necessary. Throughout her life Kösem saw reigns of six different Ottoman sultans and the first one was the reign of the mad Sultan, Mustafa. To protect her own sons, she lobbied against Osman, the eldest son of Sultan Ahmed and heir to the throne. It resulted in the usurpation of his right to sit on the Ottoman throne.  After that she built a good relationship with Osman and started lobbying against Sultan Mustafa. When Sultan Mustafa was taken to the “Cage”, Osman was declared Sultan. She kept a good relationship with Osman for a while, but things changed and Kösem began undermining his position by provoking the Janissaries.

Young and inexperienced Sultan Osman, was not aware of the chess game that was carefully planned by Kösem Sultan and that mistake cost him a lot. The result was uprising by the Janissaries. He was first imprisoned and then strangled to death. After a year following Sultan Osman’s death, Kösem’s 12-year old Murad was enthroned and because he was only a child, Kösem Sultan ruled the empire through him. At the age of 21, Sultan Murad, finally gained full control of his sultanate. However, he didn’t get to live long. He died at the young age of 28 and on his deathbed, Ibrahim the Mad succeeded the throne. During his reign, the empire was entirely Kösem’s to rule.

Kösem was now old, therefore, when Ibrahim’s 7-year-old son, mothered by Turhan Sultana, ascended the throne, Kösem Sultan was at age of 61. Still, she had no intention of giving her power to Turhan Sultana. This resulted in the start of a war between the two sultanas and this public dispute continued until the executioners were sent to strangle Kösem in the harem room. Following her death a new age in Ottoman history had begun.

President Erdoğan declares State of Emergency in Turkey

National Security Council held an extraordinary meeting on 20th July. The meeting started at 13:10 and lasted 4 hours and 40 minutes. Right after the meeting with National Security Council, the meeting of the Council of Ministers was also held. Cabinet decrees have recently announced the state at late hours of 20th July. By the suggestion of President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan and the decision of Council of Ministers, the State of Emergency was declared for a period of 3 months in all over the country. Starting tomorrow, details of the contents of the State of Emergency will be discussed in Turkish Grand National Assembly.

Emergency State means the government can suspend or change some functions of administrative, legislative and judiciary during a period of time. As a part of the State of Emergency, the security measures will be tightened; authorisations of governors will be decentralised. President Erdoğan said “Basic rights and liberties of our public will be preserved”. In addition, President Erdoğan gave the assurance to public in the matter of economy. Erdoğan also reminded the fact that there is a difference between state of emergency and state of siege, and reminded the state of emergency in France.

War and Peace: A Tale of a Hospital

A lot of people living in Istanbul may think that it’s a crazy city. Well, sometimes this may not be the case although the crowded streets and heavy traffic says otherwise. It is a place that one can surely feel at peace as its name actually denotes. The French La Paix (Lape) Hospital was the first mental hospital in Turkey and it tells a story of the battle for peace.

How remarkable it is, and whether it’s worth reading or writing about it certainly depends on a lot of factors. Its long history goes back to the time of the Ottoman Empire. Among some of the interesting facts surrounding this hospital is where its name comes from. It is a witness and symbol of tolerance that many modern societies lack today.

 

1850’s

Looking back, the history of La Paix Hospital dates to the Crimean War between 1853 and 1856. The war was between Russia and France’s allies, the British Empire, the Ottoman Empire and Sardinia, what is today known as Italy. One wonders whether it was a good war or a bad one. Of course, just like any other war there are repercussions. On the other hand, not all wars may necessarily be pertained as a “notoriously incompetent international butchery”. A lot of people lost their lives during battle, but a greater number succumbed to death as a result of wounds sustained and diseases. Had there been proper medical treatment, the number of deaths could have been lower. The exact estimate of casualties is not available although on average both sides are said to have lost approximately 350,000 – 400,000 people. This is the population of averagely two modern European cities.

Wounded Turkish soldiers were nursed by French nuns, the Daughters of Saint Vincent de Paul’s charity (Filles de la Charite de Saint Vincent de Paul). At the end of the war, more than 300 nuns had come to Istanbul to continue their mission. Despite being availed with 20 barracks and 300 beds to nurse their patients, the nuns did not own a building of their own thus at times running their work through mobile hospitals. It was however just a matter of time before the situation could change.

 

The Royal Gift

Sultan Abdülmecid I
Sultan Abdülmecid I

In 1857, Sultan Abdülmecid I made a truly royal present to the nuns as a show of gratitude for their help. He allocated 8,000 square meters of land in Şişli to the nuns. In addition, he donated about 50,000 francs for the construction of the hospital and in 1858, the French La Paix Hospital was opened. Since then, the hospital has been under the direction of the Daughters of Charity except for a few years during World War I.

The newly opened hospital offered a haven not only to mentally ill patients but was also the first hospital to accept female patients. Istanbul was a symbol of tolerance to people of different religions and ethnicities who were living together. At the centre of it was the La Paix hospital run by catholic nuns who indiscriminately accepted all kinds of patients.

 

Life in La Paix Hospital

There were two kinds of activities at La Paix hospital, one of which was about young people. Under this were orphanages, classes and apprentice workshops. More than 100 orphans from the orphanage were trained as black smiths, carpenters, tailors or shoemakers.  The hospital was also involved in charity with almost 50 to 60 people coming to the nuns to seek for help each day. In addition to receiving the necessary basic needs such as medical care, food and clothing, they were also taught gardening, fruit and vegetable growing as well as livestock and poultry. Bearing all this in mind, the nuns were always doing their best to help their patients adapt to social life. They realised that the best way to make a fresh start was through training and incorporating new skills among the affected people.

Abandoned children at La Paix at the beginning of the 20th century
Abandoned children at La Paix at the beginning of the 20th century

 

Development

The hospital graduated into a luxurious facility approximately 20 years later with Dr. Luigi Mongeri as the head doctor. Together with Cemile Sultan a sister to Sultan Abdul Hamid II, the hospital commenced offering specialised psychiatric aid in 1877. This attracted quite a number of patients many of whom were high ranked and rich patients such as ottoman civil servants, diplomats and famous people.

Prof. Dr. Mazhar Osman
Prof. Dr. Mazhar Osman

Under head doctor Mazhar Osman, the hospital continued offering education and this time it included medical education to his assistants. He started mentoring programs, case presentations, holding seminars and even conferences. Participants came in from different institutions to attend the conferences which attracted a lot of media to cover the events.  A number of articles relating to the conferences and cases were published. It was during this time that for the first time in Turkey psychiatric studies were covered. Psychiatry was now fast developing as a science and the Turkish society started to accept.

It may seem like a natural thing in today’s world but at that time, it was an evolution for Turkey. During the commencement of the 20th century, psychiatry and psychology were developing rapidly with Freud’s theory being the most famous and popularised one. However, Freud was not alone. Owing to the timing and scientific achievements, in a way Freud was following in the trend.

Following the death of Dr. Osman in 1951, the hospital changed the focus of its development. Conferences and mentoring programs were put to an end although development continued. Doctors were now applying new and the best psychiatric methods in European practice.

It is to be noted that 60-70 years ago, the psychiatric methods were not always good let alone safe. Though psychiatrists were constantly driven by a desire to help, at times cruel and rudimentary methods were applied. Patients endured not only pain from illness but also as result of the method of treatment, one can say that this was the price of medical progress.

 

Present day

La Paix hospital can be located today a few steps from the Cevahir Mall in Şişli. Through a couple of skyscrapers, there is a humble facade of a two storey building which houses the hospital. With good vivid imagination, one can see through the history of this building; how many people had passed through its doors, those who had fought for their lives long after the war had come to an end.

I believe that the doctors in La Paix Hospital had many battles of their own. These battles were for the sole purpose of attaining peace and humanity among human beings. Doctors, nuns, Muslims and Catholics altogether, this kind of work and mutual tolerance is only possible if everyone is at peace with themselves.

 

p.s. Special thanks to Andre Kuzmenko for inspiring me.

Minute by Minute: Coup Attempt on July 15th in Turkey

Turkey had lively times at the late hours of 15th July. Sporadic fighting was reported from several regions of Turkey, especially in Istanbul and Ankara. Imams recited azan over and over in unusual times during both late hours of night and early hours of morning as a message to public. As a result, public took to the streets almost in whole country. People tried to lynch the soldiers on the Bosporus bridges; military units narrowly escaped a lynching attempt. Here’s what happened in Turkey at this long night.

22.00

Bosporus bridges of Istanbul were crossed by military units. Simultaneously, aircrafts were flying low over the capital of Turkey, Ankara. Conflicts were reported around Presidency of General Staff in the capital.

22.15

Entry into and exit from both Atatürk and Sabiha Gökçen Airports were closed by tanks of military units. Military units disarmed police officers who are in duty in these airports.

23.00

Prime Minister Binali Yıldırım made a statement and said “It’s a coup attempt”

23.44

Hulusi Akar who is the Commander of the Turkish Armed Forces was captured by a group of military personnel.

23.48

Telecast of TRT (Turkish Radio and Television Association) blacked out.

23.50

Military Units were deployed around Taksim Square.

00.05

Coup Manifesto was read on TRT (Turkish Radio and Television Association)

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00.25

President Erdoğan made a statement about coup attempt and said ” I invite our nation to streets in order to stand against this coup attempt”.

00.45

Turkish Armed Forces published the Coup Manifesto on its official website.

01.00

Soldiers partially got away from Atatürk Airport. People started gathering in front of the entrance of Atatürk Airport.

01.20

A statement was published on in the name of Turkish Armed Forces on its official website, and a curfew was declared.

01.27

Commander of the Turkish Naval Forces made a statement and said ” As the command echelon, we do not accept this coup attempt. The coup attempt was not initiated within the knowledge of the command echelon.”

02.00

Department of Police Special Forces in Ankara got hit by military units, which resulted in loss of 17 officers’ lives.

02.02

A helicopter associated with coup attempt in Ankara was shut down by F-16 warplanes.

02.30

According to the information received, top government officials announced that the coup attempt was rebuffed.

02.38

Turkish Grand National Assembly and buildings of Service Commands were hit by a military helicopter, and left black smoke behind.

02.54

Aircrafts were flying low over the centre of Istanbul. Sonic Boom effect of warplanes led to panic in Istanbul residents.

03.08

Warplanes hit Turkish Grand National Assembly building again. According to information received, some of those who were in building during the attack got wounded.

03.30

A group of military units busted the building of Doğan Media Centre, and blacked out the telecast of CNN Turk.

03.36

Assembly was hit three times in an hour by warplanes and helicopters. Also, it is reported that the conflicts were ongoing around the buildings of Assembly and Grand Staff.

04.00

President Erdoğan made a second statement and evaluated the situation, and repeated his invitation to public about taking to the streets. In the same minutes, military units’ next target was the hotel where President Erdoğan was taking his vacation in Antalya. Soldiers attacked the the hotel; however, Erdoğan had already left the hotel before military units came.

05.10

Soldiers in the Doğan Media Centre surrendered and were arrested by police officers.

05.18

Military units completely got away from Atatürk Airport.

05.27

Gölbaşı Attorney Generalship stated that 47 people lost their lives in Ankara during the attack to Department of Police Special Forces. 17 out of 47 victims were police officers.

07.10

Military units on the Bosporus bridges surrendered to police. People tried to lynch the soldiers. Soldiers narrowly escaped a lynching attempt thanks to police officers.

08.10

The building of General Staff was taken from coup-supportive military units.

11.08

According to the announcement of Ümit Dündar, deputy chairman of General Staff, 41 police officers, 2 soldiers as well as 47 Turkish citizens lost their lives, and 1154 people got wounded. 104 military personnel working for the attempted coup were killed, and 1563 military personnel were arrested in concern with coup attempt.

11.58

Turkish Parliamentary Speaker İsmet Kahraman stated that the Turkish Grand National Assembly is going to be holding an extraordinary meeting at 15.00 on 16th July.

Rage Against Pets in Metrobus Causes Protests

According to IETT Passenger Rights Manifesto, it is legal for all passengers to use public transport with their pets as long as the pets are both carried in arms and have leashes. Despite the legislations, Sema Bağbak who attempted to use public transport with her dog, was forced to get off the bus and later on pounded up by security officers in Avcılar Metrobus Station of Istanbul on 17th June. The incident first appeared on social media and then spread whole country like wildfire due to printed press. According to Sema Bağbak’s statements, she tried to use metrobus with her dog but was stopped by security officers. Afterwards, she pointed that it is legal to use public transport with pets, and took a metrobus by ignoring the warnings of security officers. Later on, security officers provoked public against Sema Bağbak and forced her and her dog to get off the bus. Near the toll gates, the situation became heated as she was grilled by both security officers and people.

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After the incident, video footages of the pounding incident showed up in social media, and prompted animal right activists as well. Animal rights activists have decided affirmatively that pets be put on metrobus from 7th August in order to protest recently increased security guard terrorism against pets in metrobus stations, to inform passengers about their rights. Activists organised an event on Facebook, and they have been preparing for the upcoming event on 7th August.

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